After a month spent cooped up, for the most part, in big stuffy black boxes, what a pleasure it was to sit among lush palms and fragrant fruit trees at the Hermès show this afternoon in the Orangerie et Jardin du Luxembourg. You could say, were you a bit punchy from spending a month cooped up in big stuffy black boxes, that it was a breath of fresh air. Or as one editor put it, “Thank goodness for natural light.”
The setting felt a little like being dropped in the middle of the jungle—a recurring theme this week in Paris—and the collection that the house’s womenswear designer Christophe Lemaire showed was everything the Hermès woman (that is, one of good taste and great means) would want to pack for a trip to the tropics. Were she one for prints, she could choose giant waterlily florals inspired by post-Impressionist painter Henri Rousseau. Were she more monochromatic, she might opt for any of a number of breezy pieces in a rich palette of deep teals, greens, peach, and white. Lemaire kept all the looks light, airy, and uncomplicated—a continuation in attitude from what he did for fall. Dresses in linen and silk were loose and cinched with a skinny belt. Most of them fell to that mid-calf or slightly lower hem length that has been so popular this season. Full skirts had leather panels at the waist and were worn with elegant blouses and shirts. One wrap skirt in a variety of textures and a touch of fringe looked as if it had a setting-sun pattern woven into it.
On models’ feet were discreetly chic, simple sandals: lace-up mid-heels in jeweled color or exotic skins, or flats in a supersupple leather. It was a reminder that this is a house grounded in accessories expertise.
Altogether this collection, with its sense of grace, elegance, and ease, was a fine denouement to a spring season that, with so many fur coats and thick-knit socks, didn't always feel like it.
Here are the photos of the complete collection.