Monique Lhuillier covered a lot of ground with her wide-ranging Resort lineup. On the one hand, the commercial nature of the season calls for zeroing in on best sellers, which in Lhuillier's case means offering plenty of glamorous eveningwear. (You'd be hard-pressed to find a red-carpet event without at least a couple of starlets in her pretty gowns.) Still, the designer has been using recent pre-collections to expand her growing daywear and cocktail categories, which she successfully articulated here. Resort opened on a comparatively casual note with a boxy shift cut from buttery suede in a vivid shade of pool blue. Moving into a series of black-and-white looks with architectural-inspired shapes, Lhuillier whipped up sophisticated separates like a structured cap-sleeve top paired with a full skirt in embossed gazar. Meanwhile, a vacation-ready caftan, strapless maxi dress, and fluttery halter-neck tank conveyed a convincing sense of ease with their languid silhouettes and soft, sunburst pleating. "You don't want to be so nipped in or constrained all the time," said the designer.
Focusing on shorter hemlines, Lhuillier created a sweet cotton pique frock featuring side cutouts and an allover ombré heart print, as well as a standout navy number with a dramatic, bow-like drape in back. Those styles would be fresh teamed with flat sandals, but there were plenty of stiletto-worthy moments, too. As is often the case, many of Lhuillier's formal confections boasted all-out embellishment and intricate lace, but it was the relatively restrained gowns that had more modern appeal. Highlights included vibrant, color-blocked tea-length gowns and a fuchsia skirt with tiers of tulle that was shown with a matching T-shirt-like cape. All in all, the new collection felt recognizable while simultaneously pushing Lhuillier's aesthetic forward.
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