Jason Wu is a talented tailor; he was a savvy choice for the creative director position at Boss, the German mega-brand that specializes in suiting. The construction and precision of the pieces at the label's Fall show this afternoon were second to none; it's Wu's instincts for elaboration that can sometimes prove tricky.
The temptation to keep adding details is no doubt great, but more often than not it pays to pare back. After the rather too bold beginning of color-blocked charcoal gray and orange coats and suits with raw edges and seaming, a simple satin reverse tuxedo was a sleek, welcome sight. The icy gray and cadet blue color combos that came down the runway later looked like they would be easier to wear than the charcoal and orange pieces, but again, a long coat in the icy gray alone is likely to have better luck on the sales floor. It was shown with nicely made, matching straight-leg trousers.
Wu is working hard to diversify Boss' offering and to change people's perceptions of the brand, so he divided his efforts between tailoring and dresses. The dresses tended to have the effortless sensibility that the suits in the collection's dense, thick wool sometimes lacked. A pair of bright orange sheaths were technical in their construction, with curving and arching seams, but remained sexy and straightforward, while a couple of long-sleeve styles in soft bouclé knit were the collection's sensual knockouts.