We Flew to NZ to Visit the Hell’s Gate and This is What it Feels Like

Nestled in the geothermal wonderland of Rotorua, New Zealand, lies a place of both profound natural beauty and deep cultural significance: Hell's Gate. Known to the Māori as Tikitere, this geothermal reserve is steeped in legend and history, offering a glimpse into the Earth's fiery heart and the rich tapestry of Māori heritage.

The Legend of Tikitere

The story of Hell's Gate begins over 800 years ago, with the local Māori tribe, Ngāti Rangiteaorere, who have lived in this area for centuries. The land is a living testament to the power of Rūaumoko, the Māori God of volcanic activity, and earthquakes whose subterranean movements are said to boil the earth above, creating the bubbling mud pools and steaming vents that characterize the landscape.

The name Tikitere itself is born from tragedy. Over 650 years ago, a Māori princess named Hurutini, suffering from mistreatment at the hands of her chief husband, threw herself into one of the boiling pools. Her mother's anguished cry, "Auē tāku tiki nei" (Alas, my precious one), was shortened to Tikitere, marking the land with a story of sorrow and loss.

Hell's Gate Geothermal Reserve

The English name, Hell's Gate, was coined much later, in 1934, when the famous Irish playwright George Bernard Shaw visited the site. Struck by the otherworldly landscape, he reportedly exclaimed that it could be the very gates of hell, a sentiment that resonated with the local Māori, who decided to adopt this name for the English-speaking visitors.

The geothermal features of Hell's Gate are not only a spectacle for the eyes but have also been a source of healing and wellness for generations. The nutrient-rich waters and mud have been used by Māori warriors to heal their battle-scarred bodies and by visitors today to rejuvenate the skin and ease various ailments.

Hell's Gate's history is not just about the past; it's a living narrative that continues to evolve. The reserve offers guided tours that delve into its geothermal activity and Māori culture, providing an immersive experience that connects visitors with the primal forces of nature and the enduring spirit of the land.

As we explore the paths of Hell's Gate, we walk on sacred ground, where every steam vent and mud pool tells a story of creation, destruction, and rebirth. It's a place where myth and reality converge, and where the Earth's raw power is matched only by its capacity to heal.

Keep in mind that just because you will take the self-guided tour doesn’t mean you can do whatever you please. This geothermal reserve is not a playground and must be respected even if there’s no one looking around.

Steams and Pools

There are several steam pools inside the Hell’s Gate. It is recommended that visitors follow the guide and be mindful to always stay on the designated path.

Devil’s Bath

The Devil’s Bath is a small, shallow pool, approximately 6 metres deep. The water in this pool has a pH level of 3.5 and was used for bathing by the ‘Tohunga’ (high priest). The Tohunga attributed his powers of foresight to these sulphur waters.

Temperature: 45 degrees Celsius

Ink Pots

These pools appear as a dramatic black crack in the ground. This black colour is caused by the sulphides and suspended carbons, forming a graphite-like appearance. The pools are approximately 20 metres deep with an average pH level of 2.0.

Temperature: 98 degrees Celsius

Hurutini

This pool was named after the local Maori princess, who tragically took her life, resulting in the area being called Tikitere after her mother found her body. This pool is approximately 15 metres deep with a pH level of 3.5. Its sulphurous waters are used in Hell’s Gate sulphur spa.

Temperature: 42 degrees Celsius

Hell’s Gate

This large hot pool has no visible inlet and is in constant motion due to rising gases. It was given its name by famous playwright George Bernard Shaw when he visited in the early 1900s. The pool is approximately 25 metres deep with a pH level of 3.2.

Temperature: 45 degrees Celsius

Baby Adam

This collection of small pools has a constantly changing level of activity. The name was also given by George Bernard Shaw as the activity reminded him of bouncing his nephew Adam on his knee. The pools are approximately 1 metre deep with a pH level of 6.0.

Temperature: 68 degrees Celsius

Sulphur Bath

This pool is very yellow due to its high sulphur content. Despite its name, it is too hot and acidic to bathe in, with a pH of 1.8. The Maori people used to collect water from this pool to treat skin diseases and bites, as well as dilute it for use as an insecticide.

Temperature: 98 degrees Celsius

Inferno Pool

The Inferno Pool is made up of several main springs and is a good example of how hot acidic waters can breakdown solid material, producing geothermal mud. This pool has a pH level of 2.5.

Temperature: 60.5 degrees Celsius

The Infants

These pools again reminded George Bernard Shaw of the active nature of young children. The activity levels of these pools continually change but are a good example of the nature of this area. Here you can see the dangerously thin crust of the earth, a reminder to stick to the marked footpath.

Spraying Pools

Technically not a pool but merely surface water interacting with the intense heat of the ground. It is much like dropping cold water onto a hot frying pan. From a geothermal perspective, it is known as ‘the frying pan effect.’ These pools have a pH level of 2.5.

Temperature: 88 to 100 degrees Celsius

Kakahi Falls

These are the largest hot waterfalls in the Southern Hemisphere. Historically, Maori warriors would bathe here to remove blood and cleanse themselves after battle as the sulphur acts as an antiseptic. The full name of the falls is “Te Mimi O Te Kakahi”.

Temperature: 40 degrees Celsius

Crystal Valley

This area is covered in deposited sulphur, condensed from the geothermal steam. The blackened areas are from spontaneous combustion – this only occurs when deposited sulphur reaches 120 Celsius ignites, and then burns at 380 Celsius causing the silica rocks to melt and flow like lava.

Devil’s Cauldron

This black mud creates hypnotic circle patterns as steam is released. Our thermal reserve contains three types of geothermal muds – black, grey and white – all with different healing properties. The black mud has been known for its treatment of arthritis and rheumatism.

Temperature: 98 to 100 degrees Celsius

Mud Volcano

This is the largest example of a mud volcano in any New Zealand geothermal reserve. Mud formations generally only reach 1 metre in height, whereas this mud volcano is approximately 3.2 metres in height and growing. Like a lava-based volcano, the formations create mud lahars and eruptions.

Steaming Cliffs

The Steaming Cliffs pool is the hottest in the reserve. Due to boiling activity, erupting water can reach heights of over 3 metres. On each side of the main pool are two others with different coloured water. These were caused by an eruption and are fed from a different underground reservoir than the main pool.

Temperature: 110 to 120 degrees Celsius

Historic Cooking Pool

Although it smells of sulphur and contains black water, the cooking pool does not taint the food cooked in it. Around the pool is “land coral” made up of heat-loving bacteria that become coated with silica to produce these formations. This pool has a pH level of 6.2.

Temperature: 88 degrees Celsius

Medicine Lake

The waters and mud of this lake have been used for hundreds of years by the Maori to treat many different aches and skin conditions.

Temperature: 40 to 68 degrees Celsius

Map of Australia

The outlines of this naturally formed pool imitate that of an Australian map. This pool has a pH level of approximately 3.8.

Temperature: 36 degrees Celsius

Sodom & Gomorrah

These pools often have water erupting out of them, up to 2 metres in height. After seeing this, George Bernard Shaw named the pools Sodom and Gomorrah after the sinners in the bible.

Temperature: 100 degrees Celsius

Steaming Fumaroles

This is a large area of steaming fumaroles that emit sulphuric steam. They can be seen surrounding the Inferno pools and down to the entranceway. As it condenses, the sulphur forms stalactites and stalagmites, which can be seen as fine crystal formations in the entrances to the fumaroles.

Admission and Tickets

The Hell’s Gate Geothermal Reserve and Mud Spa offers several experiences that are available to every guest.

Hell’s Gate Geothermal Walk

Adult - $42 NZD / Child $21 NZD / Family - $105 NZD

Hell’s Gate Mud Bath and Spa

This includes bathing in the world-famous mud baths, then soaking in the sulphur spas and cool plunge pool.

Adult - $85 NZD / Child $42.50 NZD / Family $215 NZD

How to Get There

Hell’s Gate is located just outside of Rotorua’s city centre. From the city simply travel east on SH30. At approximately 5 minutes past the airport, you will turn right towards Whakatane. Hell’s Gate is 3kms down this road.

To truly understand the essence of Hell's Gate, one must experience it firsthand. It's a journey through time, nature, and culture that leaves a lasting impression, reminding us of the delicate balance between our world and the powerful forces that shape it.

So, if you ever find yourself in Rotorua, take the time to visit Hell's Gate. Embrace the warmth of its waters, listen to the whispers of its steam, and feel the pulse of the Earth beneath your feet. It's an experience that transcends the ordinary and transports you to a place where legends live.

Welcome to Hell's Gate, where the gates of hell open up to a world of wonder.