The Auckland Art Gallery has been graced with the ethereal presence of Guo Pei's "Fashion, Art, Fantasy" exhibition, a breathtaking journey through the fusion of traditional craftsmanship and avant-garde fashion. This exclusive showcase in Aotearoa New Zealand is a testament to Guo Pei's unparalleled artistry, featuring over 60 of her most innovative and theatrical artistic creations.
I’ve been to Chanel, Alexander McQueen, and even the recent Schiaparelli’s exhibition in NGV Melbourne, and although each house has its own unique impact on telling stories, Guo Pei’s way of storytelling in fabric transported me back to the ancient realm of China, while each stitch of embroidery whispers on my core creative being.
My first recollection of Guo Pei’s artistic designs is when she became a sensation back in 2015 after Rihanna went viral at that year’s Met Gala for wearing a richly embroidered, deep yellow cape from the designer’s spring/summer 2010 “1002 Nights” collection.
Together with her team, the magnificent gold dress took a laborious 50,000 hours to make, and even though Rihanna wants to buy the dress, the designer will never trade it for any money in the world.
Guo Pei herself was born in Beijing in 1967, during a time of austerity following the communist revolution. Starting out in ready-to-wear, Guo’s desire for greater opulence and lavishness — the kind her grandmother, who lived in the time of the imperial court, would tell her about when she was a girl — influenced her to shift into the world of couture, and thus Rose Studio was born in 1997. With over 300 embroiderers and craftspeople now employed at the couturier, personally trained by Guo, she has been able to revive traditional Chinese ‘royal embroidery’ techniques which otherwise would have been lost to the annals of history — and simultaneously give them new life with her unconventional designs that meld Eastern and Western influences.
Over the decades since Rose Studio’s inception, Guo has continuously challenged herself to seek out more experimental, luxurious materials and techniques, which is apparent throughout the exhibition — exemplified, for instance, in one dress which is is pearlescent in the downlights, thanks to its construction from what is actually shaved mother of pearl.
“The traditional craftsmanship in my work provides a connection with history. It gives the work a much deeper legacy — a sense of inheritance of times past, and in carrying it forward. In the future, I hope that people will see it as a footprint of human memory,” a quote from Guo at the entrance to the exhibition reads.
From the romantic billows of extravagant skirts to the seductive allure of form-fitting gowns, each piece is a wearable work of art, meticulously crafted with bejeweled embroidery and opulent fabrics. The exhibition is a feast for the senses, with jewel-like flowers, cosmic landscapes, and mythical creatures that ravish the senses and inspire the imagination. Guo Pei's designs are not merely clothes; they are narratives woven into the fabric, telling stories of nature, mythology, and the confluence of Eastern and Western aesthetics. The highlight of the exhibition is undoubtedly the iconic Yellow Queen gown, famously worn by Rihanna at the 2015 Met Gala, which is displayed in all its glory. However, the true marvel lies in the depth of the collection, where each garment stands as a testament to tens of thousands of hours of meticulous handwork. Guo Pei's commitment to reviving traditional Chinese 'royal embroidery' techniques, while infusing them with her unique vision, has established her as a vanguard of haute couture. This exhibition is not just a display of fashion; it is an immersive experience that bridges the gap between the tangible and the fantastical, inviting visitors to step into a world where fashion transcends the runway and becomes a gateway to the extraordinary.
It was a huge privilege to visit her once-off fashion exhibition which lasted almost six months. Truly a memorable visit and the experience of observing each design and learning the craftsmanship behind each piece is justly magical.
Scroll down and enjoy our captured images of her works. Each design will transport you to a different realm.
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